Arriving in Split by Sea

Some ports require a plan.

Split didn’t.

What surprised me most was how enjoyable it felt to step off the ship on foot, without the need for an excursion, taxi or shuttle. Within minutes, we were in the heart of a vibrant city with stone streets, art displays and cafés already humming. There’s something refreshing about that kind of immediacy. No layers of logistics. Just arrival.

We made our way toward Diocletian’s Palace first, which in hindsight was a rookie move. The central areas were crowded, packed with visitors clustering around the most photographed corners. It’s impressive, undeniably, but the energy there felt different than the Split I came to appreciate later in the day.

And yet, even within the palace walls, there were quieter details waiting to be noticed. An artist sat tucked into a shaded corner, painting delicate watercolours of the stone architecture around him. I paused longer than I expected. I still wish I’d bought one.

Beyond the busiest areas, the rhythm shifted. The air carried the scent of warm stone and something cooking in nearby shops. We wandered through a small market, turned down lanes that felt less travelled and eventually found ourselves climbing the long staircase up Marjan Hill. The walk was longer than anticipated, but the payoff was worth it. From the top, the harbour stretched below, with ships anchored in the Adriatic and terracotta rooftops unfolding toward the horizon. It’s a view I won’t forget.

Later, sitting quietly with a glass of local wine after that climb, I felt the kind of relief that comes from finding your own pace in a busy port.

If I return, I would approach the palace differently. A private guide would add depth and context to its layers of history of Roman architecture and everyday life woven through ancient walls, even with its more modern role as a filming location for Game of Thrones. I’d also plan for a more leisurely meal along the waterfront beneath the palms, instead of sampling bites as we walked. And I would spend more time reading about the art and architecture beforehand, so I could notice even more once I arrived.

Split reminded me that not every port needs to be tightly scheduled. Sometimes the best days unfold through a balance of curiosity and restraint, stepping into the city, wandering beyond the crowds and allowing the place to reveal itself slowly.